Kashmiri lamb chops @ Fozia’s
155 Picton Rd, Wavertree, L15 4LG
Recently word began circulating that Fozia’s, the well-loved Kashmiri diner in Wavertree, would soon be closing. Owner and chef Fozia Choudry was going to move to selling her excellent curries and gulab jamun cake exclusively by mail order.
In the end a social media post was published addressing the rumours — the restaurant won’t be closing but will shortly be refurbished and then operate reduced hours to allow Fozia more time with her family.
A collective sigh of relief was breathed. People had been bereft at the idea they might not be able to visit here again. It’s easy to understand why.
Eating at Fozia’s is like being invited round to dinner by the favourite auntie you never had. Partly because of the warmth of the welcome. Partly because the jewel-toned walls and vases of flowers remind you of a beautifully decorated front room. Partly because of the menu you’re presented with, which contains such variety — from paneer kathi rolls to tarka dhal to chicken biryani — as if to say, ‘nothing is too much trouble’.
The food here is, as you’d expect, generous. Not only the portions (though these are huge, and often supplemented at lunchtime by free plates of rice or crunchy spinach pakoras) but the flavours, which wrap you with both arms and pull you close.
The desi chaat of potato, chickpeas and crispy sev comes smothered in thick raita, is spiked with tangy-sweet tamarind sauce. Chapli kebabs have a crisp, lacy exterior while the soft insides pop with cumin and coriander seed. The famous samosas are packed with heavily-spiced meat, staining your tongue and lips bright orange with each bite, the dry heat of red chilli dancing in your mouth for hours afterwards.
Not to be missed are the Kashmiri chops — the best part of a whole rack of lamb, carved and marinated in tandoori spices, served with a bright green coriander salsa and a pillowy naan slathered in ghee.
Tender and sweet, with a deliciously crozzled crust, they are carried from the kitchen wreathed in fragrant smoke and arrive at your table with a “you enjoy them, love.” Happily we’ll still all be able to for a little while longer.
