Whipped potato and queso quesadilla @ Madre
6 Atlantic Pavilion, Albert Dock, Liverpool, L3 4AE
To date a lot of energy has been expended discussing the availability, or otherwise, of ‘authentic’ Mexican food in this country. I have nothing interesting, no unique insight, to lend to this discourse so I won’t bother. Instead, I’ll just say that having not been to Mexico — or even eaten Mexican food in the US (unless you count Taco Bell’s dollar menu) — Madre’s version of Mexican food is the best I’ve had.
A joint venture from the people behind Liverpool’s best restaurant Belzan and the London-based Breddo’s Tacos, Madre is relaxed, fun and — besides the Tate Liverpool — one of the only real reasons to visit the Albert Dock.
The menu contains a lot that’s familiar — tostadas, enchiladas etc. etc. — with the real interesting stuff often on the specials menu (the barbecued mackerel tacos we ate last time we were here blew us away). One mainstay though, and pick of the menu for me, is the whipped potato and queso quesadilla — light and airy mashed potato and sharp Oaxaca cheese fried into a corn tortilla with an exterior crust of melted nutty gruyere.
The result is rich and oily, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, but never heavy or overbearing. A roasted arbol chilli salsa dip, served on the side, provides a smoky but bright foil. Excellent. Always a struggle not to just order three servings of these and nothing else.
